We leave Kyushu’s mainland soil and cross the Amakusa-nada Sea to the island of Amakusa. Amakusa is famed for its hidden Christians. In the early 17th century the rulers began their crackdown on Christianity. Many Christian converts were thrown into the boiling Unzen Hell, forcing them to escape to Amakusa. Amakusa proved an excellent hiding place and their descendants still live here to this day. From the ferry in Oniike we head inland to cut across the island to Kawaura. The setting sun accompanies us on our last winds before we reach our hot bath for the night.